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Permanent makeup (PMU) is a game-changer, but let’s be real—not every healed result is picture-perfect. Have you ever done a gorgeous set of brows, only to have your client come back months later with unexpected undertones or patchy fading? Or maybe you’ve seen older permanent makeup that’s turned orange, gray, or even green (yikes!).

If you’ve ever wondered why some pigments hold beautifully while others break down in unpredictable ways, it’s time to talk about the shady side of PMU pigments—what’s really in them, how they age, and what you can do to ensure long-lasting, high-quality results for your clients.

Pigment Ingredients: The Science Behind Why Some PMU Lasts and Some Doesn’t

First, let’s talk about what’s actually in your PMU pigment. Not all tattoo inks are created equal, and PMU pigments have changed significantly over the years.

There are two main types of PMU pigments:

• Organic Pigments: These are made with synthetic dyes and tend to be more vibrant. However, they can fade unevenly or turn into unexpected colors if not formulated correctly such as grey or violet.
• Inorganic Pigments: These contain minerals like iron oxide, which are known for being stable and natural-looking. However, iron oxide pigments can fade faster and may turn reddish as they break down.

The Issue? Many brands now mix organic and inorganic ingredients to achieve better color stability, but not all formulas are created equal. Some fade beautifully, while others degrade into undesirable tones.

What Causes PMU to Fade or Change Colors Over Time?

Several factors impact how a PMU tattoo ages, including:

• Sun Exposure: UV rays break down pigment molecules, leading to premature fading and color shifts.
• Skincare Products: Ingredients like retinol, glycolic acid, and hydroquinone can accelerate pigment breakdown.
• Body Chemistry: Some clients’ skin absorbs certain pigment colors faster than others, leading to uneven fading.
• Technique Matters: Overworking the skin, implanting pigment too deep (or too shallow), and poor saturation can all cause premature fading.
• Pigment Choice: Some pigments have better longevity and color stability than others—choosing the right formula is key. Or some may even be better for oily or ruddy skin types. 

How to Ensure Long-Lasting, High-Quality Results

Now that we know what can go wrong, here’s how to get it right:

• Choose High-Quality Pigments: Do your research on pigment brands, understand their ingredients, and avoid cheap or untested formulas. We love Li Pigments!
• Educate Your Clients: Teach them about proper aftercare and long-term maintenance, including avoiding exfoliating ingredients on tattooed areas.
• Understand Color Theory: Knowing how pigments mix with different skin tones will help you select colors that fade naturally instead of turning unwanted shades.
• Use Proper Technique: Ensure you’re implanting pigment at the correct depth and not overworking the skin.
• Schedule Touch-Ups Wisely: Let clients know that PMU requires maintenance—most tattoos will need a refresh every 1-3 years depending on their lifestyle and skin type.

PMU isn’t just about creating beautiful work—it’s about ensuring that work stays beautiful. If you want to build a reputation for stunning, long-lasting results, understanding pigment longevity is non-negotiable.

The more educated you are about how different pigments behave over time, the better your results (and your clients’ healed tattoos) will be. So next time you pick up your machine, think beyond the initial appointment—think about how that pigment will look six months, a year, or even five years down the line.