INQURE FOR HANDS ON TRAINING HERE!

You nailed that brow tattoo. Your eyeliner work was crisp. That lip blush looked flawless when the client left your chair.

Fast forward a few weeks… Why does it look so different now?!

Welcome to the reality of healed permanent makeup results—where what you see on Day 1 is NOT what your client walks away with forever.

If you’ve ever wondered why your work heals too light, too dark, too patchy, or just not as expected, keep reading. We’re diving into the real reasons healed results don’t always match fresh work—and how to get better, more predictable outcomes.

1. Skin Type & How It Affects PMU Healing

Every client has a unique skin type, and that alone can make or break how their permanent makeup heals.

Oily Skin:

• Pigment tends to spread or blur over time.
• Brows can heal lighter and softer than expected.
• Eyeliner can heal slightly thicker due to oil diffusion.

Dry or Mature Skin:

• Pigment holds well but can sometimes heal darker or cooler than intended.
• Skin may be more prone to flaking during healing.
• Lips may absorb color unevenly, leading to patchy results.

Combination Skin:

• Pigment may heal unevenly in different areas.
• The T-zone (forehead/nose) may fade faster than other areas.

✅ Solution: Always adjust your technique based on skin type. Lighter hand pressure for oily skin, better pigment retention strategies for dry skin, and detailed pre-care instructions help set realistic expectations.

2. Aftercare Compliance (or Lack of It)

Your technique might be flawless, but if a client doesn’t follow aftercare, their results WILL suffer.

Biggest aftercare mistakes clients make:

• Over washing or under-washing their PMU
•  Applying too much or too little ointment
• Picking at scabs, causing patchy healing
• Exposing fresh PMU to sun, sweat, or water too soon

✅ Solution: Educate your clients like their results depend on it—because they do!

• Give them written & verbal aftercare instructions.
• Explain WHY aftercare matters (clients listen better when they understand the consequences).
• Follow up! A simple check-in message 48 hours post-procedure can make a huge difference.

3. Medications & Health Factors That Affect Retention

What’s inside your client’s body matters just as much as what you put on their skin. Certain medications and health conditions can cause pigment to heal lighter, fade faster, or even reject ink completely.

Common medications & health factors that affect PMU healing:
 

• Blood thinners (Aspirin, Ibuprofen, Fish Oil, etc.) – Causes excessive bleeding, flushing pigment out.
• Retinol & Anti-Aging Skincare – Speeds up skin cell turnover, leading to faster pigment fading.
   
• Accutane (or recent use) – Makes skin hypersensitive; PMU should be avoided until at least 6-12 months post-use.
• Hormonal Changes (Menstruation, Pregnancy, Birth Control, Menopause) – Can cause unpredictable pigment retention.
• Autoimmune Disorders & Diabetes – Slower healing, higher risk of pigment rejection.

✅ Solution: Always go through a detailed health questionnaire with your clients and educate them on how their medications and health conditions can affect their results.

4. Pigment Selection: The Right Color Can Heal Wrong

Pigment looks one way when fresh—but once healed, it can shift undertones depending on the client’s skin chemistry.

Common pigment healing issues:

• Blondes healing too warm (golden or orange brows)
• Cool-toned lips healing too purple
• Dark brows healing ashy or gray
• Lip neutralization healing patchy

✅ Solution: Learn color theory inside and out.

• Match pigment to your client’s undertone, not just their hair color.
• Consider how skin type, medications, and undertones will affect healing.
• For brows, use a modifier if needed to prevent unwanted undertones.
• For lips, use corrector shades BEFORE adding final color for the best neutralization results.

5. Depth & Needle Choice—It’s Not Just About Technique

Ever notice how some artists’ work lasts beautifully for years, while others fade fast or heal unevenly? A lot of that comes down to depth & needle choice.

Going too deep:

• Pigment will heal darker than expected (sometimes even looking “blown out” or blurry).
• Higher risk of pigment migration, especially in eyeliner.

Not implanting deep enough:

• Pigment heals way too light or disappears too quickly.
• Clients need multiple touch-ups to see the results they expected.

✅ Solution:

• Choose needles based on skin type & technique (larger groupings for lips, smaller for precision work).
• Adjust hand pressure to implant pigment at the correct depth without overworking the skin.
• Work in light passes to avoid trauma while ensuring proper saturation.

6. The Artist Factor: Is It YOU?

Let’s be real—sometimes, it’s not the client, their skin, or their aftercare. Sometimes, it’s us.

If you’re getting consistent feedback that results are healing too light, too dark, or patchy, it’s time to assess:
 

• Are you stretching the skin properly? (Poor stretch = uneven pigment implantation)
• Are you layering pigment correctly? (Too many passes = trauma, too few = poor retention)
• Are you picking the right technique for each client? (Microblading on oily skin is a setup for failure)

✅ Solution: Always be open to improving your skills.

• Take healed photos of every client and compare your fresh vs. healed results.
• Invest in continuing education to refine your techniques.
• Don’t be afraid to tweak your process if you notice a pattern in healed results.

Final Thoughts: Predicting Healed PMU Results Like a Pro

💡 Permanent makeup is an investment—for your clients AND for you as an artist. The more you understand about skin type, aftercare, health factors, pigments, and technique, the better your healed results will be.

💡 Want to level up your healed results? Start tracking your work! Keep a log of fresh vs. healed photos and note details like skin type, needle choice, pigment used, and depth. Over time, you’ll see patterns that help you refine your skills.

🎯 Your turn! Have you ever been surprised by how a client’s PMU healed? What adjustments have you made in your work to get better healed results? Drop your experiences in the comments!